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Martyr's Crown 
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Martyr's Crown 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skyeler Congdon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Apr 13, 2010
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Description 

A powerful start leads to a desperate throw after the second bolt. After the crux, enjoy easier, but still thought-provoking climbing to the ledge shared with Yellow Pages.

At this point, it is recommended to continue up Double Exposure. This link-up is creates an amazing 100 foot pitch of exposed arete climbing- not to be missed!

A link-up of Martyr's Crown, Double Exposure, and The Black Arete makes for one of the better arete climbs around. From bottom to top, the climbing slowly gets easier and more run-out the higher you climb.


Location 

The arete between Dogs of Doom and Yellow Pages.


Protection 

Gear for Martyr's + Double Exposure + The Black Arete:

5 quickdraws, five trad draws, singles from BD 0.3 to 0.75.

Martyr's Crown alone:

5 quickdraws, a double length sling and orange TCU, singles from 0.3 to 0.75 (for the anchor), then walk off to the right or rap Yellow Pages.



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By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Dec 5, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

Classic moderate!

By Matt Pickren
Dec 20, 2010

You must be a really good climber, I mean with 5.12 being moderate and all?

By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Jan 1, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

Haha Ya, I was just giving Skyeler shit. I cried and cheated my way up it. The real ascent will come when the weather clears along with a couple other routes up there. You should give it a go Matt if you feel you're up to it. It's pretty rad, I'll give the FA a little bit of credit (but not so much that his ego would become over-inflated).