Mountain Project: Climbing Durango

Located just outside of town, East Animas is the local trad climbing area. There are also some fine bolted climbs. The rock is Sandstone of varying quality. Most of the routes are one or two pitches and range in difficulty from 5.6 to 5.12. The majority of the highest caliber routes are on the Watch Crystal, which is possibly the best piece of stone in the Durango area. Face climbing or crack climbing, almost every route on this face is a worthwhile affair.

See the area map for locations.

Most of the walls are shady in the morning and get sun in the afternoon. Typically the best seasons are spring and fall. Summer mornings and winter afternoons can also be pleasant.

Getting There

The area is located on the east side of the Animas Valley. You can see the rock when driving north out of town. Take County Road 250 north from Durango for almost a couple of miles and locate a dirt parking lot on the east side of the road. It is just past an old barn. There is a sign for East Animas Climbing in the parking lot. The surrounding land is private so respect the locals.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for East Animas:

Angel Dust 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches Byrd's

I Need a Shower 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet Jabba Buttress

Byrd's Classic 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches Byrd's

Triple Tree Direct 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Far Left

Yosemite Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Left

Apple Cider 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Apple Cider

Simians to the Sun 5.9+ Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Watch Crystal

Push-Me-Pull-You 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Watch Crystal

Easy To Remember 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Apple Cider

Apes of Wrath 5.10 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Watch Crystal

Heros Are Hard To Find 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Apple Cider

Durangotang 5.10c Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet Watch Crystal

Watch Crystal Crack 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Watch Crystal

Crime & Punishment 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Watch Crystal

Doctor Doolittle 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Watch Crystal

The Kong Route 5.11b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Watch Crystal

Contortionist 5.11d Trad, 1 pitch Apple Cider

Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) 5.12a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Watch Crystal

Chingadero? 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Apple Cider

Stargazer 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Stargazer

Comments on East Animas

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By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Nov 29, 2007

One comment regarding access. I climbed often at East Animas between 2002 and 2005. At the time you had to cross a bit of private property to access the cliff. The landowner was extremely sensitive about having climbers' dogs cross his property. I know a separate parking area has been built since, but be sensitive to the residents living literally a stone's throw from the lower part of the access trail.

By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Apr 12, 2009

Anyone know the name of the new bolted route just left of The Contortionist? It's rad! ...just wondering.

By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 10, 2009

Anyone know what a "Standard East Animas Rack" is? The route descriptions assume everyone knows what an Animas rack is. "Protection: Standard East Animas Rack"...Huh?...If we knew that we wouldn't be reading the damn thing. You have to laugh, but how about telling us what the rack is?

By Sam Feuerborn
Aug 12, 2009

A standard East A rack...I've always used a double set of nuts and a set of hexes and been just fine...that has all ways been more than enough. I know a lot of people carry #4 & 5 Camalots for some of the bigger cracks. So, I guess in short it's just a standard rack.

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East Animas

Description

Getting There

The Classics