Cascade Canyon has a decent selection of sport routes. This is a nice summer climbing spot, as it is at a higher elevation and receives a good amount of shade. Some of the routes can be dirty from runoff and most are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range, some easier and harder ones can be found as well. The climbing is on a slick, vertical limestone. Most of the routes are on the east side of the canyon - divided into the Canyon Entrace area, Roof Area, and Pool Area. The West Side has a handful of climbs as well, but is most often visited during the winter months for ice climbing.
Getting There
From Durango, drive north on HWY 550 towards Purgatory Ski Area. Continue north past the ski area for a few more miles to where the road makes a sharp U-turn to the right. You will see a sign for Cascade Creek and a dirt road. Park a short distance up the dirt road and look for a climbers trail heading down into the canyon on the right side. There is a limited amount of parking on the side of the dirt road, but this is usually not a problem.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cascade Canyon:
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