Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. Please check on the most up to date status with the park if in any doubt.
Description
As Hot Fudge is generally described as a traverse from under Donut Hole, this line runs from directly under the crack. There are one or two nice jugs at the start which lead into a very small pinch and a great lunge to the left. That is definitely the crux and makes this line significantly harder. This then leads into the Hot Fudge crack, which I would rate an 8-. Nice climb.
Sean Odell originally described this route in 2002, but it is not in Tom Hansen's book. It should be; however, because it is really a great variation and much more challenging.
That's possible, but I think from the guide Fudge Face is a few feet further to the right. I have the guide out now and it speaks of Fudge Face being a smooth face to the right of Hot Fudge. The route I am speaking of actually begins directly under the crack of Hot Fudge and works its way into the actual crack itself. It is just a much much harder start than initial traverse of Hot Fudge. Damn all this Fudge talk is making me hungry!!
By Brian Collins From: Parker, CO Sep 21, 2008 rating: 5.10
I agree with everyone - this one is probably best described as Hot Fudge Direct - climb face just under the vertical part of Hot Fudge crack and join the crack about 12 feet off the deck. Dicey and balancy - nice start to up the challenge if you do this on TR.