Heading north from the climbers' trail junction with the cliff locate a crack with a pocket/ hole a few moves off the deck. The first move is tricky to figure out but after that you climb up through the pocket and crack with a great nut placement at the top of the first crack. Pick your own line from here, with many variations possible. The last move off the ledge to the top is a face move to the bolts.
Protection
Nuts, Cams to #3 or 4, Hexes, Slings to set up anchor. Bolts on top.
A lot more fun than the name suggests. Nice combination of crack, layback, and face techniques. Once gaining the first big ledge above the Rat's Nest, heading directly up the face seems easier than following the crack (which becomes rather off-widthy for a stretch) but both are entertaining.
It was a great route, and easy to top rope. Three anchors right at the top. It was really fun, a good confidence builder. Use the crack that is right above the Rat's Nest to make a good move to get above it.
Fun sequences to get to jugs. Great way to kick off in the 5.8-5.9 range.
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Mar 21, 2008 rating: 5.8
I enjoyed this climb on toprope. First move is tough for shorter people, but I am just tall enough (6'2") to reach the rats nest from the ground. I followed the crack all the way, but you can move onto the face as well. If you go all the way onto the rim, the last move is sweet.
By Justin Cantrall From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
Following the crack above the Rat's Nest felt harder than 5.8 to me. My initial thought was a low 10, but it's probably more like 5.9; and maybe I was just making it hard on myself (I do that). The face to the right is probably easier, but I didn't try that variation.
The crack takes adequate gear (nuts, small cams), but at one point I did wish that I had brought a #3 Camalot or some big hexes.
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