Hot Fudge 

When done as a TR, most people start this route by skipping the intitial traverse under the roof. This start begins just left of the 5 foot boulder under "Fudge Face", on the face directly under the crack system in the picture above. Do a short series of reachy, crimpy face moves to obtain the crack where it goes vertical. This start goes at the mid 5.10 range (in my oppinion, anyway) and becomes the new crux of the route. Not advisable on lead, since there are no options for pro until you hit the crack, but definately makes for a fun bouldery start to an already great route when set up on TR.

My friend aided this route ( just to practice aiding). You can reach the undercling from the ground on the left side of the undercling. As a lead route I think it is fine but you have to start from the left and do the traverse. Plenty of geat placement for cams(mid to small size). I climbed it on top tope from the left side of the undercling. It was a little scary at first knowing that you'd deck and hit a few boulders if you came off for the first 10 feet of the undercling or so. The rock is pretty solid and there are two cracks in the undercling to choose from for hand and gear placement. Once at the top you don't have to do the ramp. Continue up the crack to a large ledge about 5 feet from the top of the canyon and you can reach up and clip the 3-bolt anchor on the top. The anchor is two 1/4 in bolts and one new 1/2 inch bolt. Lower or rappel from there or mantle to the top.

Good solid rock

Possible replace on of the 1/4 in bolts with a 3/8 or 1/2.

This was a fun route on toprope. The undercling below the roof is nice, though I slipped once but did not hit the deck (big pendulum swing). A bit tougher where the crack goes vertical, this was the crux for me. It wasn't stylish, but I made it up.