Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. Please check on the most up to date status with the park if in any doubt.
Julie Prehm on top of the Banana Tower
Description
On the Banana tower, a freestanding piece of rock on the northern end of Grocery Store Walls, find the east face and set up a top rope. Climb the east face in the center on good holds with a crux towards the top.
Protection
Bolts are located on top of Banana Tower. Use care when getting onto the tower from the top.
This Route makes for a good spicy lead for those wanting to try it. I used a two cams, then two nuts at the same level to protect it. I know the nuts hold since I fell onto them. Topping out is tricky for an 8. Am I missing something? Dan Mottinger
Am I missing something on bananna tower, here? It looks to me like there are really only 2 ways to set a TR up on this rock without doing a "spicey" 5.8 trad lead:1)Free solo the Bananna chimneyOR2)Hop across a 3.5' wide by 40'deep chasm from the canyon rim onto the rather small summit of the tower.One could be forgiven for thinking both of these options sound...um...a wee dangerous. I'm no puss when it comes to semi dicey unprotected things, but it seems like falling to your death in pursuit of a toprope anchor would be awfully embarassing...
Sean--you're right. The only way to TR the Banana is to either lead the chimney (no real pro until the top, but short, easy, and not exposed) or carefully make the big step (short leap) to the top. If you're feeling sketched, you can anchor the tree to the south as a belay, then setup the TR.
The way I'm comfortable with setting up these climbs (on the tower) is to approach from the tip and sit on the edge of the main wall and bridge the gap with your feet. At this point you can clip yourself into the anchors while still being (relatively) safe and then cross the gap.
The 5.8 on this route ends when you're standing on the upper, small ledge and are holding a good pebble with your left hand. The remaining 10 feet to the anchors feels like 11b or so.
I'm relatively new to climbing and I just attempted banana peel at castlewood canyon this last weekend. I was frustrated by not being able to climb the very top part. Had the pebble in my left hand but ended up having to go off route to finish. Any suggestions on how to finish this one? Is it totally about finger strength and arm strength or is there some technique I should work on? Thanks in advance to anyone who replies!!! (BTW: Just signed up/name not available yet.)
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado May 22, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b
No way this is a 5.8. On a scale that stops at 5.10d it might be a 5.8, but on a YDS scale that stops at 5.15a, this is a 5.10+. Spicy, thin, and harder than it looks.