Svengali 

IMHO, this stinking thing is every part of the 11a rating. The second of the 2 overhangs you must negotiate has all kinds of tempting cracks on top that LOOK positive until you actually try to pull up on them. I'm glad no one was taking a video of me humping and grunting up that son of a...

Yeah, but they're positive enough if you trust 'em and pull hard... I like this one. Kind of like one boulder problem stacked on top of another.

I also got shut down on the second overhang. I finally made it with a throw for the better holds above the sloppy crimpers. There used to be a small sandy ledge just under the second overhang. After I pulled through the overhang that ledge busted off and sent me scrapping back down the rock. Classic Castlewood! I've also pulled a couple of cobbles off the lower section. Just be heads up.

I loved this climb, but ran into the same problem with rock blowing out on my. This may be a 5.10 this year, but will be a 5.12 by the time all the holds are gone.