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Project X Wall
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Rest in Pieces 

5.10b

   

FA: [Rob Hanson,1988; bolted & led T Hanson, T Anderson, M Lane, R Wright, E Leonard, 1989]
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 85 page views

Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 22, 2001


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Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. Please check on the most up to date status with the park if in any doubt.

Description 

The second easiest route on Project X wall behind Lothar, but not an easy "10" romp. Hanson lists this as 9+ in his guidebook, but the last move to the anchors is at least 10b and with the pump factor, it's a difficult onsight (unless you're warming up for the other routes here ;-). The other 12b routes must have sandbagged this "warmup."

RIP is the farthest left line on the W-facing wall at X-Wall. Start from the ground below a huge cave-like pocket or atop a large boulder. The first bolt is out of reach starting on the boulder anyway. Move up past some pumpy pockets, cobbles, and crimps with one 10a crux moving past the second bolt. Then cruise up to the overhang, undercling the huge incut roof, clip the last bolt (which is only about 18in. from the anchors, but necessary) and make some thin and strenuous moves to pull the roof straight up or right of the bolts. (The arete 4ft. left is off-route.)

My brother and I always have a favorite saying about routes like this at the Wood. If the route seems more difficult than the printed rating, "a cobble must have pulled out since the FA" making the route AT LEAST 3 letter grades harder. ;-b


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-cold shuts



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By Tom Hanson
From: Castle Rock, CO
Sep 24, 2001

F.A. of R.I.P. on toprope 1987 R Hanson. Bolted and led 1989? T Hanson, Tod Anderson, Mike Lane, Richard Wright, Eric Leonard, or some combination of this crew.

By Darrin Stein
From: Moab, UT
Dec 7, 2001

Another one of my top five. Not so easy rest past the first bolt. Save your energy, but don't rest to long at the roof. The last moves are a bit pumpy.

By Aaron Shupp
Feb 18, 2002

After you make the last clip, you can move to a great hold a few feet over to the left. This allows you to move your feet much higher and makes the finish more of a 5.9 ordeal. The crux seems to be below the final roof. If you aren't very tall, crimping straight up the finish may be slightly more difficult.

By ROC
Feb 24, 2003

Did this route recently and I agree that the final couple of moves are harder than the 9 rating. Not too bad but harder than a 9. Or maybe it was because I couldn't feel my fingers cause it was snowing.