Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Falls Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Arborist Arms 
Bitch 
Bones 
Chimney Sweep 
Club Cafe 
Fat Raisen Sings, The 
Headless Corpse of Roger Henry Floth, The 
Invaders from the North 
It's Flakey 
Lactic Tactics 
Not Long For This World 
Out of Arms Reach 
Poloroid 
Rim Job 
Steam Rock Fever 
Swinging Sirloin 
Wall of Gore 

Bones 

5.13c

   

FA: Mark MacClary
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 355 page views

Submitted By: Mark MacClary on Jan 9, 2004


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

I think this is the best route in Castlewood. I stumbled upon it almost five years ago, and fell in love at first sight. Me and a friend (thanks pack) must have worked it for 35 days that first year. Anyways it shares the first three bolts with rim job, amazing slapping and heel hook up the arete. Then traverse right in the seem and make an interesting clip. Get your feet under you and throw for the BIG rail. Its a pretty big dyno but the rail is huge, making the move maybe 12b. Clip the fourth or just skip it and make one more moderate toss up right to the good pod. Heres the crux, I use a left hand side pull which is actually a small broken piece out of a big white rock. Get your left foot up on the polished rock (sorry my foot has popped off more times than I can count) and throw right up into a horizontal credit card slot. The move is super frustrating because you have to hit it perfect, more precision than power. Maybe even harder than 13c? I will try to get some pictures up before c.b. freezes.


Protection 

Shares the first three bolts with rim job, then breaks right for three more bolts. I recommend putting a long one on the fouth as it is a little hairy to clip. Also the fifth bolt can easily be skipped for the R.P.