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Wendell Spire
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The Black Streak 

5.13b

   

FA: [J Heiney, 1999, who beat bolters T Hanson & S Sills to the redpoint]
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,545 page views

Submitted By: Mark MacClary on Jan 5, 2005


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Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>

The opening campus moves


Description 

In my opinion easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between [The Sub] and [Seamless]. A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and sloppy little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on and your home free. The top, after the crux, gets rather chossy from the run off so tread lightly. Otherwise an amazing route, due to the variety of movement, from power down low, to technical in the middle, and a combo of the two will get you through the crux.


Protection 

A stick clip is very important for this line, as the first bolt is about 15 feet off the ground and the start goes at around V7. The rest is closely bolted and no worries.



Photos of The Black Streak Slideshow Add Photo
the start of the technical crimping

the start of the technical crimping

The crux of the lower face, and a good picture of the entire climb.

The crux of the lower face, and a good picture of ...

Sticking the jug

Sticking the jug

The start of the crux

The start of the crux

The middle of the crux

The middle of the crux

end of the crux

end of the crux


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By Ben Schmitt
Apr 21, 2006

This climb is really sweet. There are multiple cruxes, I thought the hardest beeing after the big hole because you're super pumped, but highly recomended and much much better than Rim Job.