Jamuary 

FA:  Unknown (Hanson et. al?) Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 149 page views Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Dec 28, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Revolution Buttress Area.

Description 

This steep crack, to the immediate right of Butterfly McQueens' Birthday provides a long crack with several short crux sections between good to decent rests. Although it is flared, it has enough non-flared placements to protect it well with nuts and fingers to hand-sized cams. One bouldery move leads to a good ledge where the fun begins, go up the crack using jams and face holds and cobbles. The crux comes 3/4 of the way up and involves pulling over a roof using face holds while reaching for jams above. One of the better trad lines I've been on at Castlewood--steep climbing up a continuous crack that offers good pro.

Note: The line I marked Jamuary in the beta photo is really Butterfly McQueens' Birthday, Jamuary is the obvious, marked crack below and right of the Jamuary label in the pic.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #2 Friend. Offsets could help but not necessary. Bring a really long sling or extra rope to anchor this climb. You might be able to anchor off the Revolution's cold shuts but these are not accesible from the top.

Add Photo Photos of Jamuary

Dan leading up Jamuary. Photo by Tom Mottinger