A good short warmup route for anywhere along this area. You climb on the north-facing face of the giant boulder that defines the wall. A few face moves put you into a tiny left-facing dihedral. Great hand holds allow me to use the word "jug-fest" to describe this route.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. TR is via scrambling to top of the boulder.
I heard Myke and Shaun did this route so my bro and I had to give it a go a few days later. It is so juggy that I'd have to give it a 9- compared to the ratings for the other climbs in the area. A really fun route.