Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area. Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood. A perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim.
Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, and go. The first bolt can be clipped from a great pocket/lieback just off the starting ledge, but the bad fall potential at this spot might make one lean towards a stick clip. Follow two more bolts past two short bouldery sections with good ledge rests, and then tackle the final two bolts on the headwall via a tricky sequence or two. Two good bolts on top.
N.B. - as of 8/20/02, some clown has removed the hanger and stripped the threads on the first bolt on this climb. It angles slightly downward, so a wired nut isn't going to help much. If you want to lead this, you'll now have to climb all the way through the initial, overhanging crux, with no protection and really bad fall potential. I call it a TR now, but perhaps I just don't have the stones ...
Regarding the first bolt being stripped, my take is that someone sketched out on that clip, possibly even dropping off. This person then decided for all of us that [we're] better off either climbing to #2 or stick clipping. Had Rawl bolts been used instead of Red-Heads - with the protruding threaded stub - the clip could easily be restored. Tom and I revisited this route about a year ago and didn't think the missing clip was all that big of a deal.
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 13, 2007 rating: 5.11a
The bottom bolt has been replaced (just an observation, not saying I did it...).
Actually, I didn't replace the bolt, I added a hanger to the existing stud. The nut threaded cleanly and I applied as much torque as I could with a 6" wrench with no problems. I felt comfortable enough to lead on it, but if anyone is unsure, I'll take it back off.
This climb and the others next to it are some of the best in CWC. Good movement with great rock and plenty of opportunity for rests.
Morning Sun Wall
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