Just left of Marijuana, this route starts from the same ledge and has a sporty first bolt that is easily stick-clipped. Follow three bolts to a ledge, passing a lieback/jam flake. There is a bolt on the ledge that is not visible from the ground. From the ledge fire up on positive holds and another flake until crux cobbles and pockets beckon. A fine outing.
Protection
Six quickdraws to a two bolt anchor. Consider a long sling for the anchor, to avoid rope rubbing.
When you get to the first big ledge, it looks like you have a huge runout between the next two bolts. I had an awful big smile on my face when I discovered the "hidden" bolt.
This route, Marijuana, and Renaissance are all worth doing, particularly on spring and fall mornings.
A little easier than Marijuana IMO.
By kevin jenkins From: Parker, Co Jul 1, 2004 rating: 5.10d
This is a great route to push yourself on, but Dan is right- falling while clipping can mean a wild ride. I climbed past the hidden bolt the first time up this route, seeing it as my foot hit it. What a relief! Great route!
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 13, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Beware the bats living in the flake you pass/use beyond the second bolt. There were at least 5 of the critters squeaking at me while I tried to lead quickly past them.
Morning Sun Wall
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