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Morning Sun Wall
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Marijuana 

5.10b

   

FA: circa 1990? Hanson & Sills.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 355 page views

Submitted By: Chris Cavallaro on Nov 4, 2001


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Scott on Marijuana


Description 

Ah yeah...great climb with two fun sections. On the Morning Sun wall, to the right of the other mentioned climbs are 4 sport climbs with two-bolt anchors atop. Marijuana is the second from the left and starts atop a ledge. You may want a stick clip for the first. The bolts atop are not to be lowered off, so one will have to eventually clean the draws and walk off (the best way is opposite of the cave wall.) You may also want to use 2 foot slings atop to eliminate rope drag. Party on!


Protection 

6-7 draws.



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By Darin Lang
Apr 23, 2002
rating: 5.10d

Bolt placements are pretty sporty, but the harder moves are reasonably protected. The guidebook lists the route as 10d - I'd call it at least 10c.

By ROC
Mar 10, 2003

Fun climb, but be carful leading it out. Especially after the huge legde halfway up. JUst above that there is a sloper thats pretty greasy. My friend bailed at this spot and busted up his ankle pretty good when he hit the ledge below. Belayers, heads up on this one.

By Scott Robertson
May 22, 2003

Is it alright to toprope this route, are the bolts on top in good shape? How many are there...

By Darin Lang
May 22, 2003
rating: 5.10d

The TR setup is fine. Two good bolts on top.

By Anonymous Coward
May 22, 2003

It is probably always best to toprope Marijuana.

By Scott Robertson
Apr 23, 2006

In my defense, I'm only sometimes on this route (Marijuana that is)...

By rags
Jul 31, 2007
rating: 5.10d

This is a wonderful line! The bolt spacing is good for the mind. Great rests, be confident, it's all there!

By Dan Godshall
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2007
rating: 5.10d PG13

Be careful moving past the first bolt above the middle ledge. I fudged the sequence and came very close to introducing my ankles to the ledge. Any one who wants some BETA: From the first, large, sloping hueco move left for a deep slash in the face, rather than up to the right towards some slippery cobbles and another large dish/pocket.