The third buttress left of Wendell Spire holds routes on both the left and right corners. Prarie Dog runs up the left corner. Reach for some big-ish jugs on slightly crumbling rock to get established under a small roof/bulge. Pulling the roof/bulge is the crux (has a bolt just out of sight over the bulge!) and it is considerably more powerful than one may anticipate. Throwing for the jug over the roof/bulge works well but feels a bit committing. It goes statically if you pull down the lock-off. Saunter up to the anchor by staying on the arete. This route is a worthy addition to the Wendell Spire sector and provides a good, pumpy warm up for some of the adjacent tweakers.
The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected.
Of course the ratings are subjective, but this one is on my top five out at Castlewood. Below the crux: A left foot high in the hueco, right foot underneath on a knob - Left hand to the right of the left foot......grunt and shoot the big knob. Another Tom Hanson classic.
Fun route, too bad its so short. The crux is over before you know it then its just a few more feet of easy moves to the end. Definately easier than it looks.
Wendell Spire
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