Note, some of these crags are closed for raptor nesting. MORE INFO >>>
Please check on the most up to date status with the park if in any doubt.
Castlewood crag closures for 2010 Spring and Fall season.
Shakespearean Theatre closed March, April and May. Mind Meld closed March, April and May. Porky's Wall closed March, April and May. Vulture Walls closed March, April and May. Morning Sun Wall closed March, April, May, June and July.
Project X runs up the middle of this wall just right of the grey streak. Climbing up to the final roof is reasonable 5.11 climbing on thin cobbles and a few thin edges. The roof, at one point, contained a small crimper cobble that has been pulled off. My recent attempt here ended in frustration. On top rope, it was possible to contrive a ridiculously long reach from an almost horrizontal body position, to pick up a thin blackish inclusion, and still follow the existing line. Not really workable on an honest lead (for me anyway). In putzing around below the roof it seemed as though one could redirect the route to the left making a logical, traversing finish. It may be worth relocating the anchor for this purpose (??).
is this really suppose to be 5.12 climbing. the cobble that was pulled out left a sick dish which was a blast if you got it like a side/pull gaston, but the crux was not sustained at all... i feel a 5.12 climb should have more than 1 or 2 tough moves. In Rock Climbing Colorado though it says it goes at 5.12b (was that before the cobble gave?) if so has anyone climbed this root without that existing cobble? Anyone? Feel free to disagree.
Great route! The rest before the crux definitely makes the redpoint easier, but this is still a tough route. I move right under the roof and go to the slopey pocket to pull over the roof. Fun stuff!