Castlewood Capers runs up the right side of the second buttress left of Wendell Spire. Now, I am most decidedly lazy and will take an easy option when given the choice, however, while this enjoyable line has been touted to run straight up buttress two, without a stem to the right, logic, and not laziness dictate the stem. The entry is not even a stem really so much as a back step of no more than two feet. One can pick their poison, but with a back step this goes nicely at 5.11a. Good crimps above and a bit spooky making the thin reach to the left before crawling out to the face proper. Intricate climbing.
Although my climbing savvy is always suspect, I failed to see any obvious or logical stem through the crux, unless one were to go way right of the bolt line. The line either straight through or slightly to the left of the bolt line seemed fairly obvious to me, with a tricky reach left from a so-so hold and then a powerful pull/mantel to the third bolt. Fun moves and well-placed bolts.
Would be two stars if the fun moves weren't so brief.
11b/c
By kevin jenkins From: Parker, Co Sep 8, 2004 rating: 5.11a
this stays solidly at .11a if'n you wise guys stay off of the stem w/ exception of the crux. well protected! expect to take a fall getting to the mantel, but bring your brain and use it to, and all will be well.. happy climbing!
Wendell Spire
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