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Wendell Spire
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
Beak, The 
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Bag of Tricks aka Flake 

5.9+

   

FA: RMWright, 1995
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Views: 387 page views

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001


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Description 

Follow the West facing corner system of the third buttress left of Wendell Spire. The crux is getting established in the corner system at 15 ft. Very hard for 5.9.


Protection 

Draws and a rope.



Add Photo Photos of Bag of Tricks aka Flake
Koko on the start.

Koko on the start.

Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.

Koko setting up the sandbag hand-jam.

Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.

Ken leading on Bag of Tricks.

in hiking boots

in hiking boots

sending the crux

sending the crux


Add Comment Comments on Bag of Tricks aka Flake
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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 18, 2001

The move to get into the corner seems 10a to me--quite powerful compared to other 9s I've climbed.

By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

I second that. The crux move at the overhang is an awkard, powerful, off-balance layback on a handjam. My vote's on that move being in the 10a range, but maybe that's just because it kicked my ass.

By Darin Lang
May 28, 2002
rating: 5.10a

I third that. 10a if you do it just right, harder if you do it wrong (aka My Way).

By ROC
Feb 19, 2003

Fun route with tricky crux. Just figuring out what to do is the toughest part. Once you got it dialed it goes with no problem.

By Ken McVicker
From: Centennial, CO
Mar 15, 2003

I agree the crux is harder. 5.10a is more correct. I spent 4-5 minutes trying different sequences before I convinced myself to commit. It was real sketchy while on lead ove the crux. The good thing is that you have a bolt you can clip above you before heading over the crux. Once past the crux it's an easy stem to the top.

By Darrin Stein
From: Moab, UT
May 18, 2003
rating: 5.9+

There are two routes that are within all the pictures seen here. I believe the one listed is straight up where the rope line is (see pic #1). I could be wrong, but it seems the comments are for the route to the right, which I believe is Prarie Dog.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
May 19, 2003

Darrin--my comments were for Bag of Tricks. I think it's hard to confuse the routes since Prairie Dog does not involve the corner or crack at all.