This route was originally bolted, sans rope by RMW. It was intended to provide a very secure place for the beginning leader to get started on the sharp end. Remarkably, shortly after the route was bolted it was led by a member of the intended target user group, a beginner. At the anchor, he and his partner proceeded to epic (a whole 35 ft off the ground!!). In the epic, the leader managed to get completely tied up in his rope, evidently by turning in circles at the anchor ledge. Not content with simple dancing around the rope, he then became completely detached from the double bolt anchor. With a little verbal urging from the ground he eventually reattached himself to the anchor, disentangled from the rope, and was then lowered to the ground. His comment upon landing was "Holy Shit, that was amazing!". Need I say more?
An Excellent beginner lead route. maybe 5.3, with one 5.5/5.6 move right below the anchor. I'll be bringing friends here that want to learn how to lead sport routes.
I agree...not bad for a little first lead. I'd agree that 5.6 is a way generous rating...most of it would go in tennis shoes w/out thinking twice. Just watch that you don't thwack the old noggen standing up after the last move for the anchors. Turns out there's a bit of an alcove up there. Of course, I suppose I could just be a spaz...
Wendell Spire
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