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Beta Slave 
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Entry Level 

5.8

   

FA: TR: Kathy Shannon, 88. FA Bolted: Richard Wright, Anna Bran
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 486 page views

Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Dan Mottinger leading on a cold Christmas Eve.


Description 

Good beginner/warmup route. Start on the next section of wall S. of Beta Slave on a black water streak not as prominent as Pat Hedgeclipper. Move up on good holds all the way to the anchors.


Protection 

5 QDs to a double bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Entry Level
The route from directly below

BETA PHOTO: The route from directly below

Dan trying to keep his hands warm.

Dan trying to keep his hands warm.

Myself on my second lead, and yeah, it was kinda wet...

Myself on my second lead, and yeah, it was kinda w...

At the crux, trusting those feet, my second lead.

At the crux, trusting those feet, my second lead.


Add Comment Comments on Entry Level
Show which comments —
By Cobra13e
Apr 2, 2002

Did this route on 3/31/02. Last bolt and both anchors are spinning, seemed solid, maybe just need to be tightened up some.

By Jason Velocity
May 14, 2003

I did this around 4/03, and it is more like a 5.10 when it's wet.

By Darin Lang
May 15, 2003
rating: 5.8+

This climb would certainly be much harder when wet. Even bone dry, though, at least one move on this route feels a little tricky for 5.8. Maybe 5.8d.

By Robert76
Jun 12, 2004
rating: 5.9-

I tried to tighten the bolt at the anchor and it didn't turn easy so i let it be, the hole must not have been deep enough when the bolt was installed. I also agree that the crux move feels harder than the 5.8 grade would imply. Maybe i used the wrong hand holds or didn't look long enough? Has anyone taken any falls any of the bolts, can't say that i like cold shut bolt hangers

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jun 16, 2004
rating: 5.8+

I fell with my feet above a bolt in the crux and it was fine. Hard 5.8, but I am not good at cobble climbing so everything at Castlewood feels sandbagged to me.

By Robert76
Jun 26, 2004
rating: 5.9-

Still think the crux move is in the .9 area, but anyhow i installed chains at the top, enjoy.