Ben trying to solve the tricky moves of Beta Slave...
Description
Starts 10ft left of the large black water streak. Move up on some pockets to a small ledge. The crux is moving up and left to the next small ledge via a thin flake. Delicate moves, tricky sequence, and unobvious holds.
Fun and tricky climb, and a most appropriate route name. Harder, IMO, than Morning Glory (10d) on the other side of the canyon. The bolt protecting the crux move spins a bit and, after what must be countless 10-15 footers (I'm responsible for several), could probably use replacement. Does anyone know whether bolt replacement (same hole) is allowed at Castlewood?
Climbed this route on 8/16/01. After finishing off other 5.11's in the area on this ady, we thought to do this route to end the evening. I think there must be something missing from the route now, as the move above the 3rd bolt is quite hard, and I would say much harder than 5.10c (IMHO), perhaps more like 11b/c ?? Perhaps a key hold is missing from the route, as there are some bright, non weathered marks directly above 3rd bolt to the 4th. If anyone has any information, let me know at jeffereylockyer@hotmail.com
Not that it matters, since we all TR'd this thing to death as the warm up while developing the other routes on this wall; but I was the bolter, namer and FFA, followed by Richard Wright. And as such, I will shortly replace the spinner crux bolt. I didn't mean to install an auto 10-footer; I just felt that with the balancing involved with gliding thru the crux a clip would be the real crux.
I didn't mean to suggest that the route was poorly bolted. I'd say, in fact, that it is perfectly bolted. The fall from the crux is safe and clean, and being above your gear just a tad while pulling the crux moves adds immeasurably to the fun quotient. Well done.
This route needs better anchors and to have the crux hanger replaced. Tzilla has approached CWC about the replacement iniative, which is pending....
An AC wondered if a hold broke because it seemed harder than .10c. No, it's the same route, just highly devious. Hence the name.
This is not a good route for the nascent 5.10 leader. The crux bolt is 3'-4' below your feet when you engage the crux, which is 5 moves to the next clip hold. 10-15 footers are common.
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