Mid-length routes (for CWC). Sport routes in the range of 10c-12a, some topropes, and a few trad lines.
Getting There
The next crag on the West rim past the Cave Wall to the South. Take the Cave trail, and hike S. until you see a large roof at the top of the wall. This is the start of Morning Sun Wall.
Keep in mind that the 3 star rating above is relative to the area. Nonetheless, this is the best route I have done so far at the Wood. A perfect before-work climb (as are the adjacent climbs), with direct sun on the climb as soon as the sun breaks over the east rim. Park at the Falls trailhead lot. The clean face on which this climb is found is evident from the parking lot. Make the short hike up the good trail just west of the lot, rack up, ...[more]
As mentioned previously the Falls Trailhead parking lot is the last lot on the left as you enter from the canyon from the route 86 entrance. There is a sign that says " No parking beyond this point" right there on the road. Park, then walk across the road to the trail sign and head up.
It's a lot easier to park here than at the Grocery Store Wall and walk over.
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 13, 2007
Marijuana, Magician's Apprentice and Pointillist all have regular bolts atop them. For descent, you must top out and either walk down or rap off the bolts with quicklinks atop Renaissance. Most of the routes here (including Morning Glory around the corner) have high first bolts (at 5'10" I couldn't reach any of them) with an overhang or dicey section to start with. I would recommend bringing or rigging up a stickclip for those you don't feel comfortable with the moves or quality of rock (I pinged off a pebble at the very start of Renaissance, directly in the climb/bolt line....)
Morning Sun Wall
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