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Main Boulder aka The Wedge
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Don't Tell Mom 
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Trail Route 

Don't Tell Mom 

5.11a

   

FA: Ric Gieman
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 644 page views

Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Don't Tell Mom.


Details 

Starts on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder and climbs up the left side of the west face. A fun, little, dynamic move will get you to a nice pocket. This climb has been bouldered/soloed, but most would find it prudent to set up a TR using the anchor bolts up top.



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By willo schubarth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 20, 2008

FA: Ric Gieman.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Aug 20, 2008

Isn't this the same route as "Trail Route." This post contains the correct name and grade, but I was just wondering if there was one sport route at Ute that I was unaware of.

By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 22, 2008

No. Trail Route follows the bolts up the arete that faces the road (only bolts on the rock). Don't Tell Mom is a high-ball boulder problem that starts a few feet to the right of Trail Route and climbs the face up to the obvious hueco, which requires a dyno about 15-20 feet off the deck. The toprope anchors mentioned in this post are the same anchors used at the top of Trail Route. If you choose to high-ball it, get ready for a long ride down if you don't stick the dyno.

By tradcragrat
Nov 2, 2008

I bouldered/soloed this after inspecting it once on toprope. I think it's solid 5.11. A good (and heady) route that probably deserves more toprope traffic than it gets. The crux comes at about 25 feet, give or take.

By D Argyle
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 17, 2009

Dan Russell had some cool video footage of Jeff Russell on this climb on the web somewhere. Whatever happened to those Russell boys?