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Ute Valley Park

Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Latitude: 38.9118  Longitude: -104.8570 
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One of the nice warmup or warmdown problems at thi...


Description 

Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.

P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.


Getting There 

From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.



Featured Route For Ute Valley Park
Jerad on Pungase.

Pungase V7-8  CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Main Boulder
Climb the arrete facing the main trail to a good jug ~12 ft up. Given V8 but felt quite soft. Probably the best problem at the valley....[more]


Add Photo Photos of Ute Valley Park
V3 problem; directions: when walking uphill on the dirt path, take a left when you see the large boulders on the right. Follow the boulders up the hill -- its the 3rd big boulder you will run into. There are some V5's as well on this boulder.

BETA PHOTO: V3 problem; directions: when walking uph...

My friend, Wil, working the V3 problem.

BETA PHOTO: My friend, Wil, working the V3 problem.

My friend, Gary, on the same V3 problem.

BETA PHOTO: My friend, Gary, on the same V3 problem.

Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this picture gives a better view of the V5s on this rock.

BETA PHOTO: Same boulder the V3 problem is on; this ...

Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.

BETA PHOTO: Gary at the crux of the V3 problem.

Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the dirt path.

Nice view of the boulders on the right side of the...

V0 crack; nice warm up route.

BETA PHOTO: V0 crack; nice warm up route.

A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it has some nice V0 to V2 problems on it

A profile view of the Wave Boulder; it h...

The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in the middle that goes straight up and tops out. There is a V2 variation that starts at the same spot, but the route moves to the right where you top out on the taller right side of the boulder. There is a nice V1 traverse as well. You start at the same sit start as the others, but you top out where the V0 does but you then traverse all the way over to the left side of the boulder.

BETA PHOTO: The Wave Boulder; a nice V0 sit start in...

This boulder is on the right side of the path.

BETA PHOTO: This boulder is on the right side of the path.

A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the start).

BETA PHOTO: A fun V1 slab without the hard start (V2 with the ...

The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.

The Floater (V5) on the right side of the path.

Fun V3 roof.

Fun V3 roof.


Add Comment Comments on Ute Valley Park
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By D Argyle
From: Farmington, Utah
Jan 31, 2006

Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus.
If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.

By Dave Jackson
Mar 6, 2006

This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.

-D

By Ben Snyder
From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT)
Apr 8, 2008

Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...

By Ashley Gann
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 15, 2008

Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.

By J.P.Boyd
From: Greeley,CO
Sep 15, 2008

I ducked in to check this place out while waiting to meet a guy to buy some cams. I like it a lot! A nice mix of problems to warm up on, and some solid pumpy routes to really get warm. Feels like a gym with how close everything is, you can bang out a ton of lines. Lots of problems not listed, but everything is easy to find. Seems to be more potential under some of the flaky dry sand. I say check it out, if you don't like it.... Nice Locals too.