BETA PHOTO: Photo of 2/3 of the route - ending move out of and...
Description
Trad in Red Rock Canyon? Oui. C'est vrai.
From the guidebook: On the far left side of the cliff. Layback a fingertip crack up an obvious right-facing, arching corner until it's possible to exit. Climb directly above the arch to anchors in a shallow scoop.
Other notes: #9 in guidebook.
Location
Furthest south developed route on the slab - see photo for prominent characteristics.
Would it be too much to say this is one of the best routes in RRC?? I personally loved it. Although I did it on TR, I'll be back soon for the lead. THIN fingers start to big ole underclings. SWEET rest before finishing move to anchors.
Bored of all the bolted slabs at RRC? This is a real treat. It's still a slab, but it's a crack to. This is really classic for the 50 or so feet long it is (just guessing the length). I had to climb it before I new what the route was or what it was rated. Actually blew my 1st attempt because I didn't have gear small enough for the start and kept falling to the ground. Will take a 00 TCU at the start. Thanks for not bolting this route. The thin gear at the beginning adds to the fun.
Not as difficult as the guide book grade of 11c/d. Just seems hard because its slabby and you can't get your tips in the crack at the start. I'd agree with 10+/11- since I suck at slabs and was able to lead this with 1 fall (yes, those thin cams will hold). Once you are past the 1st 20 feet its just fun. Must do for the area.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Aug 29, 2007
The guidebook rating of 11c/d refers to the climb to climber's right, which is certainly that grade. This climb can often be distinguished from the constant supply of leaver biners on the last bolt.
Snake alert, On Saturday a climber on Solar Flare got bit by a snake when he put his hand in the crack at the start of the climb about 5 or 6 feet from the base (I was climbing two routes to the right on Tava).
We could not identify the snake as it retreated back into the crack. The climber seems to have been ok so either it was a dry bite or it was not a rattle snake. The crack is very deep making it very difficult to see the little bugger.