Very difficult start for this grade, and continues with moderate climbing up to the anchor. Good and enjoyable rock; however, some key holds have broken off, bringing the rating up from a 5.10a to the 5.10b/c range. Nonetheless, a good, albeit rather difficult for the grade, climb.
Location
Last route on Ripple Wall before the wall "Bends;" three routes are past it. Look for chalk on what appears to be an interesting start.
The start on this looks and seems to be in the 5.11 range? After getting to the 2nd bolt, it eases to about 5.8+. I looked for broken holds at the start but did not notice any areas that look like that was the case. We just stick-clipped the first bolt and managed OK.
Agreed on the tough start. Like Jim, I was wondering if a hold or two had broken off. In a couple areas, the rock looked a different color as though a piece might be missing. It definitely feels harder than 5.10a up to the 2nd bolt. Fun after that. Took a pretty good lead fall about 1/2 way up. Also, it's mentioned elsewhere that the left anchor bolt is quite loose.
I traversed in from an obvious rail about 6 feet left of the large block laying at the base of the route. Although easier than a direct start these moves were mid 5.10 IMO. A scary first clip and the second wasn't very secure either, much easier after that. The first bolt spins and both anchors are pretty loose also, be careful.
Pretty cool sequence of thin moves past the first couple bolts. It helps to be tall. After doing about a half dozen pitches at Red Rocks park last week, this felt far harder than the other 5.10s we did. Perhaps more like 5.11a.
Ripple Wall
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