Easy route for this grade; could potentially be rated at a 5.9+, but is a 5.10a/b due to a tricky start and a tough series after a big ledge about halfway up. Easy to go to the side on the harder portions to make it easier, although this destroys the rating. A great warm-up climb.
Location
The route is on the far north side of Sayers' Wall, just to the left of a group of pine trees. It runs over a large ledge running down to the ground, and the belay can set up just off of the trail.
Protection
Route has 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The pro is pretty new, and very sturdy. Although it's an 80 ft. climb, the bolts are well placed that extra pro is not needed.
By Phil Lauffen From: Boulder Jun 25, 2008 rating: 5.9
My friend led this a few days ago. A really good climb. The initial edge up the first slab is tricky. There are two ways as far as we could tell. To the left or to the right. Both ways are full of temptations to use the trees next to the wall as a kind of pseudo chimney. RESIST IT! It's a lot more satisfying. Other than that pretty straightforward with the crux after the big ledge. There's always the one handhold you need. And plenty of feet to mantle to (as the name suggests). Awesome all around. Well protected. I would say it's a little easier than 5.10a/b. maybe 5.10- or 5.10a
By Curt True From: Colorado Springs, CO Oct 2, 2009 rating: 5.11-
Going direct through the last bolt makes the route a ton more fun. I'd call the move an 11- at least. Also, not PG-13. Just have your belayer spot you on the start.
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