From guide book: Excellent moderate route on the right side of the face. Begin by scrambling up to a 1-bolt anchor in a scoop below central wall. Traverse right on third class rock for 60ft to a bolt at a small belay stance. Smear up the undulating slab above to a headwall. Work up right along a line of flakes to a hole with a large crystal-line xenolith ("strange rock"). Anchors are on a narrow shelf above. Caution: The flake towards the top is loose.
Location
This route is the farthest right route on Wiggins Wall. You can find it from the shady area by scrambling up the rock and traversing (approx. 60ft) to the right, you'll see the belay bolt roughly 30-45ft from the dirt line (bear in mind erosion may increase this distance). It's definitely decent 3rd class hiking to get there. The anchors when you look at the rock will be just to the left of the bushes that have a small outcropping below them.
Protection
8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (there is a belay bolt as well, and it's pretty high up and could be mistaken to the first bolt).
We found it easier to get to the "belay bolt" by just walking on the ground until we were below it. Then follow easy rock up to it. It's really not too far and seemed easier and more secure than traversing in from the left.
The route is really good. It begins with some thin (no hands) moves and changes to decent hand holds for the second half.
It's best to traverse right across the slabs from the bolt on the ledge below "Mo Verde" and "The Youth" because there is lots of poison ivy along the base of the cliff. It can get ya even in winter. Also, don't flake your rope out down there unless you want the dreaded PI on it too....
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