Climb a shallow right facing corner (protect with a #2 Camalot) and stand up on a flake. Climb up left (5.7 move) past a bolt. Continue up left to another bolt and then climb directly up the face above to a tricky finish. Belay from bolts on a shelf left of the prominent quarried slice.
Location
Route that finishes just to the left of the 2 big cuts on the Whale. Start just right of the big ponderosa pine. Rappel with double ropes or a 200ft (60 meter) rope which reaches some foothold (with rope stretch) a few feet off the ground.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Bring #2 Camalot also for protection in the first corner.
We climbed this today, definitely should be a morning climb, cause it got pretty toasty on the slab going up around noon. Also, we kinda suspect some flaking off at the part you should be able to cam in at. Reason being we couldn't get our cam to stick, maybe it should be checked out just to be sure, then if a bigger cam should be recommended, someone can recommend it.
By Joshua Blake From: Colorado Springs Aug 24, 2006
When I climbed this, I didn't find any need for the cam, but then again I have long arms to reach out for the first bolt. The top is definitely tricky and commiting. The moves scared me much more that the crux.
We used a 60m rope and had no problems at all. I'd tie a knot in the end just to be sure the belayer doesn't let it through the belay device. I also had no problem getting a #2 Cam in. FYI this route is a little harder than the rest of the 5.7s in the RROS. It's not hard but compared to some of the other 5.7s on the Whale, it is harder, I'd give it a RROS 5.8-.
By Mike West From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 8, 2008
I didn't think you needed a cam. Some of the top moves are scary.
The Whale
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