BETA PHOTO: The route we took in red with the green line sugge...
Description
After scaling the lower slabs, head for the main dihedral in the center of the West side of the pinnacle. Note a crack with a bolted chain anchor over to your left at the level of the start of the dihedral. There is also another crack with some old bolt hangers on the slab higher up on the left as well. Keep to the main dihedral. The only fixed gear on the route are pins left from the FA.
The 5.8 finger crack is within the first 100 ft. of the wall. Gear placements may end up making this section more difficult for the leader, but once removed much easier for the follower. Go up and to the right on a very narrow ramp with a crack in it and end on a wide ledge below a roof. A wide crack is on the left. If taken, this crack will strand you on a sub-peak and make it necessary to rap off of. Instead, climb up and around the small roof and face the final summit pitch. Climb up a wide crack and then vere left up a short slab section to sneak past the boulders that make the summit ridge.
To descend the route, simply scramble North along the ridge line until it becomes obvious where you can move down and to the right (East). Some large, twisted trees are along the way. A small creek flows in this drainage and leads the way down to the hiking trail, but the water disappears underground at some point.
Loc, it's accessed from the crags trail on the west side of Pike's Peak. It's on the way to Cripple Creek, just after the east side of Mueller State Park, left side of HWY 67. I believe there is a brown sign pointing the turn off the highway.
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