Pearly Gates is the namesake route on the Pearly Gates formation. This formation is a very attractive 250' long slab just west of the Aiguille de St. Peter (The Martyr) and is clearly visible from its summit.
The (two) climbs on this slab start from a bolted belay on a ledge about 75' off the ground and are best approached by scrambling down the gully just West of the Aiguille de St. Peter. As you're heading down, head left around onto the face as soon as you are able and you'll see this ledge. They can also be approached from the base of the Aiguille, but this isn't as pleasant.
The Pearly Gates climb itself is a very fine slab climb that follows a beautiful, incipient finger crack off the left end of the ledge. There are several fixed pins on the climb, but it protects well even without these. Very sustained at the 9+ grade, Pearly Gates probably has two or three sections that check in at 5.10.
Protection
A good selection of small cams (Aliens) and small stoppers.
By Julian Smith From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 24, 2004
The Pearly Gates starts from the [left] end of the ledge that is in the lower right side of the picture. The pitch tops out to the right of the sun-bathed, dihedral in the upper part of the picture. To start, climb up to the ledge, traverse right to some shuts, and belay. Traverse the ledge back to the left to start the route. It is a very sustained and long pitch. The gear recommendation says bring a "good selection" of smaller cams and nuts. It is not kidding. I found the 0, 1, and 2 TCU's to be what I needed the most of. Cheers.
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