Black Science 

Now, every route is different than every other, and every area likewise, but if we're opting to call the Johnson Route .10d, then the grade given to this route might be re-investigated. To me, it felt vastly easier than the Johnson route, to the point where I'd even opt to call it a .9+. In saying this, I realize how many people that climb hard .9 who might think otherwise of this climb, and in fact so would I. What I mean in labelling this climb as a hard .9 is that it is at least a grade under The Johnson Route. Therefore (thus, ergot,...), if The Johnson Route is labelled in some guidebooks as .11a then I have no problem calling this route .10a/b. Of course, routes here all felt harder than most at the same grade. I think this might owe itself to the polished nature of slab climbing in this area: fun, but funky...boy are my calves tired!