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The Amphitheater
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Climbing By The Brooks 
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Full Male Deal, The 
Slick Willard 

The Full Male Deal 

5.10c

   

FA: Ike Deal and Brett Pierce?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 190 feet
Views: 479 page views

Submitted By: Ben Glover on Jul 13, 2003


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Craig working the bulge.


Description 

This is the 3rd route on the left side of the amphitheatre just prior to the headwall (past Slick Willard and Climbing by the Brooks).

8-10 feet up the route should be a stud w/o a hanger & nut. The climbing is 5.easy here so either bring your own or run it out to the 2nd bolt. The easy slab climbing will steepen as you climb. The first pitch crux will be 1-2 bolts below the anchor. If you're like me you can look forward to blasting the crux and landing on a slabbed section of rock below.

Both pitches are listed at 95 feet (so a 50 meter might just make it). Credit the rating and length to the S.M.G. authored R&I mini guide.


Protection 

A rack of draws should be fine.



Photos of The Full Male Deal Slideshow Add Photo
Craig putting in work to find the right beta.

Craig putting in work to find the right beta.

Get it right or take flight.

Get it right or take flight.


Comments on The Full Male Deal Add Comment
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By BrettPierce
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 20, 2007

First Ascent -- Ike Deal and Brett Pierce

I had originally called this the "Full Meal Deal" to honor Ike. But somehow the name was lost in translation when I gave Stew Green the details of it for his Rock and Ice article.

I like Stew's name for it better than the original.

By kjdetlor
From: Monument CO/ Collegedale TN
Sep 18, 2007

First pitch is REALLY run out, it's easy climbing, but still a little bit nerving for sure. I totally would not want to fall during the crux moves either, cause I'm pretty sure that that fall wouldn't be very clean.

By BrettPierce
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 18, 2007

I've been meaning to go back and add a bolt, so if you were to blow it at the crux you wouldn't deck on the slab below. If someone gets to it before me, you are more than welcome to add one and only one bolt where it is needed.

By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 20, 2008

Anybody put up that extra bolt? Any additional beta would be great. We hope to do this in the coming weeks.

By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Sep 9, 2008

This climb was well protected if you have an active belay. I unclipped all the bolts before the bulge and put a long sling on the bulge bolt. The climbing before the bulge is 5.7 at the most, but a long draw on the bulge bolt and a short one on the next bolt will keep you off the slab (with a good belay).

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
May 17, 2009

I don't think the bolt has been added... but it's not too bad. I wasn't sweating too hard. Pretty sustained once you get off the slabby section. Fun route. Also, I pulled a large flake off today after the third bolt of the second pitch. Stuff is still coming off this.