By Patrick J From: Manitou Springs, Co Oct 29, 2008
So, is it gonna go?
There are a few other bolt ladders in The Garden that look like they might go, like the notch direct on South Gateway. There was even a draw on that route this summer, got me thinking.
The first pitch of Inferno goes and has been top-roped, but not led.
The Notch Direct was top-roped by Ian Spencer-Green a few times back in the mid-90s. Goes at .13a but I talked to the park & rec then and they asked that we not rebolt it and to discourage people from climbing it. In fact they would like us to pull all the gear out of that route. The Gateway area is a sensitive viewshed area and if climbers were active on the wall there the city could concievably close down climbing on the right side of The Drug Wall.
Other bolt ladders that have been free climbed are Zipper on N Gateway, 2nd pitch of Pete & Bob's, and the 2nd pitch of Angle Tangle.
I left that biner with the red webbing on the notch... We were working the route on toprope (obviously, cuz those pins are scary) and that biner helped keep the toprope closer to the wall. Most of the holds are crumbling and if someone frees this line, new protection must be put in. Those star drive pins will probably barely hold body weight, let alone a fall.
I don't see why p&r doesn't want people climbing this route if it were re-bolted or why it could potentially close climbing on the drug wall... One of the thing tourists love most about The Garden is watching people climb and that would be an exciting line....