I copied this photo from the South Gateway Rock pa...
Description
This is an exciting route that goes up the steep white face of the Indian Head formation, right of West Point Crack. It begins at an overhang with a new bolt just off the ground.
P1) Crank the overhang, then continue up on easier terrain past a thread for some protection, and another new bolt. Step right to a crack where you can place a #4 Camalot, then continue up to another new bolt. (At this point, the Indian Head Route continues straight up). Traverse right past 2 drilled pitons, and make an exciting move right to a left facing corner. You can place a 0.75 Camalot here, but it's not that great, nor is it too necessary. Climb to the top of the pillar and belay from two bolts and a ring angle piton. (5.9+, 100 feet)
P2) Climb straight up about 12 feet on steep, friable rock to a bolt and a piton. This is pretty exciting and has potential for a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. Traverse right about 10 feet to a left facing corner/flake/groove. It's possible to place a #3 Camalot here, but a few feet higher is another new bolt. Continue up steep, sustained, and loose climbing, past four more new bolts to the obvious saddle in the white rock. (5.10+ R, 100 feet)
Rappel the route. Or climb straight up an unprotected slab (5.6 R/X).
Location
This route is located just right of West Point Crack. Part of the first pitch is shared with the Indian Head route, which continues up and and then left, where the Pipe Route traverses right. The first pitch is high quality. The second pitch is sustained and loose but offers interesting climbing in an excellent position. While the new bolts provide good protection, the second pitch is still a bit run-out and is only recommended if competent at the grade.
Protection
Quickdraws, runners, #0.75, #3 & #4 Camalots. The route has been equipped with new bolts and 2 bolt anchors, to go along with some drilled pitons.
By Dan Godshall From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 22, 2008 rating: 5.10b R
The climbing on this route could be fun if more people did it and cleared off all the rotting rock. In its current condition, it is runout, loose and I doubt I would ever do it again.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
