The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Jon Cannon breathes a big sigh of relief after cli...
Description
To correct previous wrongs (see description of Fastest Drill) I've decided to enter a separate description for Unzipped.
Unzipped is the left most route on the Cowboy Boot Crack Face. It is three bolts to a two bolt anchor. The "s" rating is given due to the long, unprotected opening traverse. You can TR the mostly unprotected Warren-Johnson route to the left from these anchors. A 60m rope will reach the main platform, but as always tie knots in the end of the rope to be sure.
From the main platform, traverse left to the farthest line of bolts. Not hard climbing, but mentally it can get to you a bit. Head up the obvious bolt line, staying more or less to the left of the line. Step up the commiting move above bolt #2 and grab edges and a final hueco before the anchors.
"The Zipper" After you have done the first pitch, don't forget about the next 2 pitches going to the top of Tweedle Dum Spire. They're harder than the first pitch .11b & .9. From the belay look up you'll see the line of pins going up. If you go straight up its A2 for the first 30ft. then .11b, or you can climb up and a tad to the R. and then traverse back to the left after roughly 30ft. Then on to the summit of the spire. Rappel down FA: Harvey Carter and Cleve McCarty FFA: Mark Rolofson And Jeff Britt
This is R/X. If you fall on this while on the traverse, you are fucked. It is still a good line to do a few times.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 21, 2007
The traverse can be protected with 2 small Camalots (I think I used a 0.4 small gray and a #002 C4 yellow - but I could be slightly off on these).
I used a piece of cord and a rap ring and extended the top bolt of the anchor so that the two bolts are equalized if rapping off and top-roping the Warren-Johnson (also known as Mike's Face). This should also work to better equalize the anchor if trying to get back to the ledge below Cowboy Boot Crack (but that is not recommended due to the potential pendulum).
North Gateway Rock
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