North Ridge 

Additional beta from yet another ascent of this fine climb on 9/3, which refreshed my recollection. There is one giant eyebolt after the initial crux moves, then a bolt with a hanger. Thread the pothole and clip another pin before the belay ledge. A pink tricam or #3 hex makes the runout to the ledge reasonable. The belay now has a giant eyebolt and only one fixed pin. One more eyebolt on the short vertical section, and then to the top. A #2 Camalot/#3 Friend can be placed between the last bolt and the summit. Two giant eyebolts on the summit for the rap. I_ve done this climb 5 or 6 times now, and it still gets the juices flowing. Superb.

The large boulder on the second move off the ground (right about where the climber is standing in the attached photo) is really moving now. Last year it was a little loose, and when I went up the route today it was all over the place. It felt like something I would not like to pull out on and have land on me or my belayer. So use caution getting to the first eyebolt as the rock is a big sucker.

Just a note: we just attempted to do this route in 1 pitch. Turns out LENGTH isn't a problem with a 60m rope, but the rope drag on what is normally pitch 2 is just too gnarly to mess with (especially on a route where balance is such a huge part of things). Do it in 2.

Despite Darin's questionable judgment, he got this route about right. In my limited experience outside this is one of the coolest routes I have ever done. I can't add much to Darin's beta, but I can address the rope drag. I found that a couple of good, long runners can help this a bit. I was able to do it all in one pitch. A great climb with plenty of exposure, both to the ground and to the tourists ambling about.

Wow, what a great route! Cruising up this with both feet exposed to air is a real fun rush. Agree with the Beta about carrying a couple cams, and threading the one pothole. With just that minimal gear and the clips to bolts, a reasonably well protected route. I think there are only two-three 5.7 moves, this is a mental climb if anything. Great fun!

Not to belabour the point, but that loose block is really loose. And it's the block on the left, not the block on the right (where the climber is standing in the photo), which looks like it might be loose, but isn't. Great route, have fun.

Not to take anything away from a mega-classic route, but this line really should be added to the blacklist. I climbed it again last night and was amazed at how much modification the first pitch has undergone. The middle of the first pitch, especially, has gone from what might have been 5.7 or 5.8 smearing to a 5.3 staircase of cut holds.There's nothing that can be done about it now, of course, but since this website can be used as a powerful communication tool within the climbing community, routes like the North Ridge of Montezuma's Tower should be used to exemplify what not to do to our rocks.That said, I fully intend to continue climbing and enjoying this unique route.

And watch the hell out for that loose block at the start. That thing moves in a stiff breeze....

Yeah. last comment....i agree that the middle section is kinda like a ladder of rock and easy climbing. MOntezuma has been one of my favorite mod. routes in the Garden; ive done the route many times for a long time now, and as long as ive been climbing there, it has always been the same thing. So, my question for you, Chris, (or anyone) is if this section of the ridge was at anypoint of .7 or .8 rating to begin with?

Let's not get carried away with criticism. This route shouldn't be blacklisted for the same reason Otto's route on Indy shouldn't be blacklisted. The modifications are very old - historic even. If you've done much at all in the Garden you've noticed these carved out pods in many places - the Practice Slab approach and Silver Spoon gully descent come to mind.

Don't get me wrong. It's not wonderful that they were created. But they aren't being created anymore and need to be viewed with a little historical perspective.

Re: route modification...

I don't believe those dishes you're refering to were done intentionally. I think it's just the traffic on a popular soft sandstone route. Otto's Route is a different story. One would think the art of climbing had evolved since then but apparently not (see: S St Vrain, Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek Canyon, etc).

Along the lines of what Dan had to say, view this route with a historic perspective. If you look at the FA info/background of the North Ridge you will see that the first DOCUMENTED ascents were by military personnel getting practice in. It is rumored that they chopped steps in. Oh well, it is part of the history of the route. So, it is the difference between what may be a 5.9ish route or a 5.7. Oh well, it is done and irreplaceable. The bottom line is that this is a great moderate (possibly in part to the route characteristics), possibly one of the best in the front range when you take everything into account. Just my two cents. . .

I was thinking about this some more the other night. The steps were not chopped in to to make the route possible. That is, this was not someone's project that they were working on forever and just couldn't get so, they decided to make it easier (possibly similar to something like the alleged chipping on Kryptonite?). The "steps" were put in for easy access, they are part of the route and should not take away from this climb. Just another thought that I had.

There are new = recent chopped steps up this fine route. Sections requiring smear moves just weeks ago now have a sequence of steps that are not the ancient/military ones referred to. I am disappointed to see this happen on the route, which I did with a party again today. Why is this happening?? Also, note that the left block on bottom is indeed loose, right start on right block is solid, and there is an overkill (probably about twelve) of chopped steps to access the leveraged move that are new and don't even add to the solution of moves off deck. Bummer.

More chopped steps....JUST what the garden needs. Lets just hang a ladder from the top while we're at it. If you ever see anyone in the gardern carrying an alpenstock, please impale them on it.

Be prepared for some real runouts on easy terrain if you don't thread the pothole and use a few of pieces of gear (a #13 BD stopper, pink tricam, and a #2 Camalot). Granted this is easy climbing to the top of the ridge, but the gear will make you feel a tad more secure. Also, be very cautious around the loose rock on the left just off the deck.

Climbed Montezuma's north ridge yesterday....It was great fun. I felt that the crux of the first pitch was definitely within the first 20-25 feet. Not hard, just unprotected. Surprisingly to me, I got quite a bit of gear in. A #13 stopper, light blue tricam, along with .75 camalot, and a #4 flexcam supplemented the eyebolts and thread all on the first pitch. I'm sure a better climber than I wouldn't need all that gear. Overall very fun route....but made more interesting by a stiff breeze.You can easily rappel with a 60 m rope from the first belay ledge to the west.

One of the best (7) climbs in the state? I beg to differ.This route left me wanting. A far cry from most (7) climbs in Eldo for instance. A decent warmup to others in the area perhaps, but too short and not sweet enough...

Did this one yesterday. Fun climb. Felt very exposed with balancy moves for a 5.7, not a lot of hand holds, more of a trust your feet route. I was sad to see that this route has clearly been altered in a most profound way! There are many "steps" that have been carved into the rock. This route should be in the "chipped" section on this website as there can be no question this route was altered to make it easier. The steps are less than 6 inches apart and some are newer than others!

Regardless of the steps I found this to be a stellar route. As far as the previous comments about Eldo having better 5.7s, all I can say is it's two different worlds. It's like asking which city you like better, New York or Seattle? It just depends on what you want.

That loose block a few feet off the ground is definitely not part of the route anymore. I don't know if a climber or the weather we've been having lately that knocked it off, but it makes the start just a bit harder.

This raps with one 70m, just barely.

Climbed this route this morning. Awesome exposure/climb. At the top me and my partner couldn't find a definite rappel anchor....Just two bolts and chains. No Rap rings or carabiners located on the end of the chains. We ended up simply creating our own system with a rap ring and sling. If someone gets up there and knows how to rap it without our junk and ends up with an extra ring, I guess it's just good climbing karma for us..... Don't know how long that sling will last with UV exposure. Be cautious.

We rapped off MT 3 weeks ago with no issues. I either put my rope through two eyebolts or two bolted hangers and had no problems pulling the rope. I'm pretty sure I didn't use the chains although I have elsewhere in the Garden.