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Martian Route 

5.8

   

FA: Harvey Carter (1980?)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 578 page views

Submitted By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Shot of Martian Route and Water Gully. Route line...


Description 

A decent route up small ledges. Some fun balancy moves and a bird cave filled with dookie add to charm.


Location 

On the "second tier" of Keyhole. From the South End Topropes of Kindergarten (Cathedral) hike west, uphill on a dirt trail to a saddle. The second tier is on your right. You can access the top of the climb by hiking around back, into a small canyon between 2 fins. A little hiking gets you to a place where you can walk on top of the fin of interest. Pass a large boulder and walk the top of the fin to the anchors.


Protection 

Books talk about 4 pins - I only saw 3. It'd be a hairy lead, as the first pin is way up there. Can be toproped off a 2-pin plus a bolt anchor with appropriate slings and biners.



Photos of Martian Route Slideshow Add Photo
Shot of the 3 fixed anchors.  These are right above Martian Route and Water Gully.

BETA PHOTO: Shot of the 3 fixed anchors. These are right abov...


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By Stephen Carlos Rydalch
From: Parker, CO
Oct 13, 2009

I also only found 3 pro bolts on the route, with the first one about 30 feet up. They are old ring pins.

The route has great TR access with 2 pitons at the top, plus a crack to back up from with a cam.

A very fun, sustained route.