BETA PHOTO: The best route for a decent from the summit of Kin...
Description
Kindergarten Rock is the Southernmost of the three large main formations in the Garden, and contains many fine climbs. Ormes' Chimney (5.6) may be one of the first technical climbs in Colorado and is still impressive when you consider it was done by Robert Ormes in 1924.
While the West Face of Kindergarten is composed of the same soft sandstone found on the Gateway Rocks, the East Face of Kindergarten is composed of solid, featured, and almost glassy sandstone. Some development has occurred in this area over the last 10-15 years, along with some rebolting of old lines. Must-do climbs on Kindergarten include the super-classic and well protected New Era (5.7), End of an Era (5.8), and Diesel and Dust (5.11).
Getting There
To reach the East face, drive all the way around the main Garden formations until you are on the one-way road headed back North on the East side of the Rocks. Park at the parking area just South of the main formations. New Era, a dihedral splitting the rock all the way to the top, will be clearly visible. Hike uphill basically straight towards New Era. It's hard to get lost.
This route is located on the east face of Kindergarten RockPark at the Kindergarten Rock parking area and walk up the road. You will see a faint trail on the left side of the road cutting through a field of POISON IVY. Scramble up the steep hill to the base of the prominent crack in the middle of the formation.You can climb this in two or three pitches. I prefer two.P1 climb jugs and pigeon shit to a thin layback crack just before the cave bel...[more]
Seems to me this section should be listed as Grey Rock, or Cathedral. Kindergarten might best refer to the south end (only) topropes. This very large formation and some intense climbs, deserve a more recognized proper name, yes?
On the photo, add two other anchors - both to the right of the last blue line on right. One set is just under the bulge and slightly down from the bulge peak. The other set is for rainy/slippery descents of the ramp or rappel training. The two hangers there are on the flatter dish area on the top of the approach ramp. Also, I got to agree - calling this magnificent formation, in total, Kindergarten Rock is ridiculous. East and West Face climbs of moderate to high difficulty deserve to be attached to the name(s) Grey Rock, or Cathedral Rock as mentioned and recognized in the Park literature.
While walking around the south-end topropes (en route to the Scarecrow area) I saw a route that I was wondering if anyone had info on. It is pretty much on the SW corner of the rock, though more W than S. It is definitely before (i.e. south of) the other west-side climbs. It has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor has blue webbing and maybe rap rings. It doesn't look super hard and isn't super tall. Can anyone ID this climb and its rating? The books I have don't mention it. Thanks for any insight.
Ryan, if the climb your talking is roughly 75ft to the right of Footloose and goes over a small roof, that's about a .9. It's been there a long time and I haven't climbed it in a long time, but if my memory serves me it's right around that grade. No idea on the name though.
I added "Unknown 4-bolt climb" with some pics. There were some climbers on it, so I didn't get a chance to go up. They didn't stop at the webbing, but went all the way to the landing way up there. Please comment on the description or the grade.
By Phil Lauffen From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 21, 2008
Is there any beta for Ormes chimney? Or is it not even worth it?
Kindergarten Rock
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