Enjoyable, sustained, and very interesting face climbing on solid rock. Skyline Pig is on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. To access the climb, park at the south parking lot and walk down the road to Kindergarten Rock. Skyline Pig is the southern-most and lowest climb on the east face. Look for new bolts and old pins following a direct line up a face past some shallow cracks. The route is straight-forward but requires good technique and careful balance in places. You will run into two 5.10-level cruxes--the first a pumpy pull over past a bulge about 40 feet up, and the second a balancing act right before the anchors. Rap from the first pitch anchors (a 60m rope will reach, I'm not sure about a 50m). There is a second pitch that face climbs up a large corner past large bolts which I've never tried--the weeds poking out of the corner are a deterrent.
Protection
Recently re-bolted. New bolts supplemented by old drilled angles make for very sure pro. Solid anchors at the top.
Did this route again on 2 July 2002, this time did the second pitch. P2 is a 5.8 stemming pitch of about 40 ft. past three bolts, to anchors. The belay is a hanging belay and isn't really worth the effort. The second pitch isn't all that great, though pitch 1 remains one of the best in the Garden.
One of the best face routes around. A technical climb and in my opinion the .10b rating is right on. Just remember...when the climbing gets tough, stem (except for the balancing act at the top). A couple options exist at the second bulge, veer left (thin,balancy) or veer right (steep jugs).
By Cody Cook From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 29, 2007
Ric Geiman's GoG guide suggests this route is 5.11d. I know this may be questioned as a stiff .10b, but we would all agree that this isn't close to .11d. However, about a quarter of the way up the route there is a line of hanger-less bolts that head left over very difficult terrain, and seem to make their way to the present-day anchors at the top of P1. Does anyone have history on this line? Is this perhaps the original line that Geiman referred to as .11d? Has this line ever been climbed?
Kindergarten Rock
RSS Feed
