Bob's Buttress Crack 

The slings are gone, and even though this is a short route, this is a Garden classic. The crux is a slight overhang about half way up that requires a big step or some fancy stemming. The hand and finger jams are soid all the way up along with plenty of places to place gear which makes this a fun route for people learning gear placements.

I placed several #1 camalots and a #2 camalot about two years ago on this climb. This route supposedly goes all the way to the top of the rock.

It appears that the slings at the top have been replaced with chains. Whoever did that - thanks :)

Watch out for bats in the crack about 1/2 way up. Jam with care!

I would add one piece of big protection to your rack, as there is a solid placement for a #4 camalot toward the top of the climb, a few feet below the only fixed pin on the route. The crux move over the bulge isn't so bad - I tried jamming it, found I wasn't strong enough and made it by with a lieback. There are a couple of finger locks outside of the crack itself that offer decent resting spots.

I'd have to disagree that this is a good first trad lead. A little too sustained, I think. Cowboy Boot Crack or even New Era's first pitch might be a friendlier first run at placing gear, I'd say.

Sustained would be a very accurate route description - this made it seem harder in my mind. Not for the new trad leader - I ended up making it some kind of weenie aid climb after running out of strength. Also managed to give my #6 fat cam a good lead fall - my first woo hoo! This climb furthers my opinion that I am a wuss. Just the same worth doing if you are ok with trad & have the stamina - I'll be back eventually to do it the right way.

This thing sucks up pro..easy climbing on the bottom to an weird bulge with good jams to an easier top. Would be a good lead for a solid .8 trad leader.

Great climb, but I'm glad others felt it was sustained! A few years ago when I climbed 3 days a week, this route was no problem. Now after a 3 year hiatus from climbing, I struggled for the majority of the climb. My recomendation is not to waste energy over protecting. 4 pieces of GOOD protection plus the pin will suffice, and you'll have plenty of energy. My mistake was making 10 crappy placements because I never had the strength to get a GOOD piece of pro in the rock and I wasted a lot of stamina.

No slings on the wall. Sustained!