The Window 

I'm pretty sure this one is still open, My wife and I climbed it on 10/20/01 and there were several rock scramblers in the chimney who received warning from the rangers, but we didn't here a peep. Indeed the pro is hard to come by... I found a couple of tri-cam placements 2 and 2.5 I think and slung a few of the large flakes, but I'm glad I didn't have to test any of them. An interesting climb, seldom more than two feet wide -- very airy.

What a goofy arse route. I put in one cam before the "window" and that created more problems than is was worth. This route was out there. Maybe good practice for route finding? It really forces you to look around and see the inobvious sections. Pull on the flakes, smear the feet and work your way up to the top. Ride the ridge cowboy style and belay the second. Not near as spectacular as its neighbor to the east. But, if there is a line for Montezuma's Tower, and there is nothing else to do, and if you don't mind sparse pro on a psychologically "tough" route give The Window a try.

Right after the window is a travers across an unprotected ledge which is the technical and psychological "crux" (to the extent that anything at 5.2 can be considered a crux) of the route. A slip on the traverse would wreck someone's day. Has anyone figured out a good placement for some protection on the traverse?

Best thing to know, besides other comments already mentioned, is the actual "quality" of the rock. The traverse is not technically difficult, but I found a LOT of loose stuff on both hands and feet, many times flaking off during the moves. This makes for a non-smiling traverse without the pro. Not a bomb route, but no 3-star IMHO. The "closure" issue may relate to Garden-wide policy of off-limits to scramblers more than 10 feet off deck. This formation gets lots of violating scramblers who tackle the easy chimney on south end and stare at you as to why you needed any ropes/gear at all when they meet you at or near summit.

Perhaps due to erosive changes, c/w S Ridge, White Spire; N Ridge, Montezuma's; Potholes, Red Twin; this route feels 5.2+++ or 5.6/5.7 at the end of the traverse. Being shorter than 5'7" may make it feel even 'arder. Not the best route for a beginner 2nd.

The traversing "crux" is unprotectable with gear, but the window and the thigh high rail will catch you if you fall, but the crux isn't hard, it is just a little scary. My personal experience is that you should build a small anchor and bring up your second right after the crux. This reduces rope drag and makes the climb to the summit A LOT easier. As a warning to anyone who doesn't enjoy rapping off old rusty pitons, once you make the step across and to the summit, you cant back down, and the piton anchor looks 50 years old on the top. It's still safe, it's just a little scary. EXCELLENT EXPOSURE ON THE SUMMIT!!

I'm not certain that this is the appropriate place to post this information, but there was a fatality on this route yesterday. See http://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/3681896/detail.html

The climbing community still seems pretty small to me, and every time this happens I feel like I lost a good friend that, by mere quirk of fate, I just haven't met yet. My condolences to his friends and family.

Also, this is an opportunity for us all to remind ourselves that (1) one can never let one's guard down, no matter what the route, and (2) climb somewhere other than the Garden when it has rained.

Echo your sentiments Darin but need to make a correction to your comments. This route is on the north ridge. The fatality occured on the south ridge of the summit fin. To the best of my knowledge the south ridge is not documented as a route in any of the guide books. While "The Window Route" is indeed quite chossy, the south routes are even more so. I can not think of any rock in "The Garden" that is more fragile than the south ridges of "Three Graces".Mark, I never met you but, like Darin, I grieve your loss.

I heard he was on the west face, but that may not be correct. Either way, he was attempting to lead some of the loose topropes, not advisable. I met him a few years ago briefly, but didn't really know him. Heard he was a good person, though, tragic.

A funky and fun little climb that we did today after finishing Montezuma's Tower. I thought the most difficult move was climbing up the first hump before the window. We were not able to protect the traverse after the window, but it was easy with good holds. There were two very solid large bolts on top with a chain between them for rappeling.

Climbed this route this morning. managed to place some tri cams and some slings around a couple flakes. Also used a #2 and 0.75 cam. Good route, lots of exposure on top. There's a lot of ways to through/around the window, but we found it was good to belay the second up after the crux. Reduces rope drag. Airy straddle on the ridge. Both me and my partner thought it felt harder than a 5.2-- Maybe 5.4. The rock is crumbly and there aren't bomb proof holds.