The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Description
Though slightly awkward, this is a great crack, especially if you want to explore the top of Tourist Gully. To get to the base of the climb, first look just right of Kissing Camels to the very distinct crack. Probably, the best way to get to the climb is by climbing up Tourist Gully as the climb is just as you pop out of a little slot, but if you wanted to lengthen your outing you could do Anaconda's 3 pitches and then cross east ledges (north to south) and climb up the 5.4 slab right up to the base of the climb. When I first did this route, I had no information about the FA party rating... so I climbed up 5.3 face climbing for about 10 feet maybe 20 feet right of the crack, then walked across the summit ridge to the top of the climb. If you do this, you can get a good anchor and TR it. If you just want to lead it, bring up the green and or blue Big Bros, and some cams BD .5-3 and a 5, probably won't have a place for 3.5 or 4. Overall, a fun climb, good fist stacks up to some chimney and face climbing though.
Though this climb is rated at 5.8, with Carter having the FA, the climb felt much harder than 5.8. I would say 10- or even a solid 10.
From the top, walk north til you get to a 10 foot section of easy down climbing. once you finish the climb if you are still looking for a little more fun, make a short rap from the saddle were you topped out tourist gully, then drop slightly north to an interesting fixed anchor. from here short rope across the ledge system (east ledges) into the hidden valley. there are two old I-bolts that you can rap from 2 ropes are needed for this descent. if you opt out of the ledge traverse retrace your steps down the gully.
Protection
As I said above, green and or blue Big Bros, and cams from .5- 2 or 3 and a 5 (BD).
This route is called The Plus Four Crack and was done by Harvey Carter. Rating is 5.8. The upper rock really isn't so bad. A fun climb high above the Garden. It's best to approach by scrambling up Tourist Gully. The route begins from the ledge just above the gully. Walk-off to the north.
North Gateway Rock
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