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Kindergarten Rock
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Footloose N Fancy Free 

5.11a

   

FA: Leonard Coyne & Ed Webster - '77
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 150 feet
Views: 643 page views

Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Jan 1, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Footloose & Fancy Free


Description 

Approach -- This route ascends the steepest part of the west face of Kindergarten Rock. Approach from the parking lot just west of Montezuma's Tower, or from the Garden's South Parking Lot. Start on a ledge below a steep, green lichenous slab that leads up to a roof and a left leaning, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet up.

Climb the slab past 4-5 pins on mostly moderate climbing, but with some fragile edges and flakes. About 5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9. At the roof, get ready for steep, sustained, pumpy climbing. Ascend the 5.10 corner which is well protected and take a rest at its top at an alcove. Pull through the overhang at the top of the alcove onto the vertical face above, and follow it past a few more pins to the anchor on a good ledge. The crux is the move just above the alcove. The climbing above this eases, but is still challenging due to the pump factor.

Descent -- It is best to walk off to the south, as there are many very sharp edges on the face at the top of this climb. Top-roping, rappelling, or lowering from the anchor is not recommended. A climber died on this route in '93, due to slicing his rope at the top of the route. This was prior to the direct finish with 2-3 pins above the crux which were added after the accident. It is easy to see how one could be lured left onto unprotected and razor sharp face climbing, but just stick to the line of drilled angles, and you should be fine. This route is one of my favorites at the Garden. Go get it!


Protection 

About 14 drilled pins. 2 drilled pin anchor. Accepts some gear, but not really needed.