The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
The obvious long, wide, and steep crack is Max's M...
Description
This route is located on the east face of the south end of North Gateway Rock. Scramble 40 feet up steps and large holds to a large ledge below an obtuse right facing corner with a couple pins (Snuggles). Most parties rope up here.
Snuggles: Climb the nice hand crack that arches out right towards its top past a couple pins to a large ledge with two pins. Gear from 3/4" to 2". (5.8 - 50 feet).
Fall Crack: Continue up the off-width off the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet to a piton on the right wall. (An old 4.5 Camalot might be useful here, depending on your off-width skills. I used an old #4 Camalot to protect the moves off the ledge, but it was fairly tipped out and useless). Continue with another 10 feet of wide/squeeze climbing, make an airy move out of the wideness, then continue up easier ground to a 2-pin anchor with rap rings.
This is a nice climb with good exposure and a nice belay station. Many parties also climb the left facing corner off the right side of the ledge above Snuggles (5.9+?). My length estimates are approximate, so don't assume you can use one rope and rappel from the top of Fall Crack to the anchor on Snuggles. If you do this, at least make sure you're using a 60m rope, and bring webbbing and rap rings to leave on Snuggles, which is worth top-roping. I recommend just climbing Snuggles and Fall Crack as one nice pitch, and use 2-ropes to descend. If this climb hasn't been done recently, it will be sandy, especially after some rain, but what Garden climb isn't? My FA info was taken from Bob D's guide.
Protection
Standard rack up to 5". About 4 or 5 ring angle pitons on route.
In my opinion, both pitches should be done in one! The rings on the pins at the end of Snuggles pitch (at the ledge) look like they have hairline cracks in them.
The left facing corner that angles to the right above Snuggles is more like a 5.9+%$@!!# which denotes the expletives you'll be using on this TERRIBLE rock (even by Garden standards). There is a person sized chunk of rock with in the middle of the route ringed by a significant crack that poses a significant risk to your belayer. Not recommended...
I agree with AC. I climbed Peterson's Crack (The left facing corner that angles to the right above Snuggles) in the fall of '05. After many +%$@!!#, I arrived at the top exausted from skipping loose holds, loose blocks, and dirty off-widthing. The climbing sucks, and the pro is even worse. I recommend sticking with fall crack for the second pitch.
To backup what Scott said, the anchors are definitely not the best and need attention. While the pins are pretty well driven, the ring on the right pin MOST CERTAINLY has a crack in it, and it's more than "hairline." I never noticed it before, and when I saw it yesterday, my ass puckered for sure when I started my rap. The pin on the left is just as old, but the ring looks to be in a little bit better shape.
At the very least, there should probably be some webbing up there to equalize that crap, but a much better solution would be 1/2 inch bolts, or those supa sweet glue in jobs that can be found on the boot face. I think I will send an email to Stu to see what he thinks. Also, that Peterson route to the right of Fall Crack looks like CRAP! I know Mike is going to talk me into doing it one day, hopefully that will be a day on which the "rock giveth" as opposed to a day on which the "rock taketh away."
Quoted as the best crack climb in the Garden from the Garden guidebook? Wow, I don't think so. Fun and enjoyable, but definitely not the best. Many loose blocks on the top of the fall crack. You can climb it in one pitch and rap it with one 60m rope, no need to bring two.
Bring a knife and extra webbing to clear out the old stuff at the top anchor. We had webbing, but forgot our knife and the webbing is starting to look a little weathered.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jun 13, 2008
The mostly unprotected slab to the base of the route takes one sketchy thread through a handbar that looks like it would crumble if you actually fell on it. Just brush off your footholds prior to stepping on them and head up. There is a collection of boulders that has been slung to rappel down from. Kind of funky, but it holds.
North Gateway Rock
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