Moving through the fun flake moves on Beat Me Up S...
Description
Located a few routes climber's left and down the slope from the New Era dihedral. Look for a line of old fixed pins ascending a flake before trending left about 25 ft. off the ground, where the flake peters out. Five ft. left of the start is a line of coldshuts leading to a separate anchor, a hard 5.12. Your parter will belay off of a boulder right of the climbing line.
Excellent rock and fun, steep moves. Thin crux comes between the first and third pins. Though old and some of them protruding more than you'd like, said pins seem safe enough. Two old bolts at the top.
Chamo is right when he says this is an under-appreciated route. Don't let the looks fool you- some of these pins are bomber, and some may not hold body weight. Back up what you can, and take it easy around the third bolt.
Beat Me Up Scotty has a beefy 1/2" bolt with chain and stainless steel ring to back up the two old pitons at the anchors. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the replacement gear.
Thanks for all your work in replacing stuff over there, Stewart, all the anchors look fantastic now!
Agree with the above. Great route with lots of fun small holds, lots of tensiony moves. The old pins look sketchy, but all of 'em felt bomber, and there's gotta' be one every 6' or so.
By Phil Lauffen From: Boulder Jul 31, 2009 rating: 5.10d
First off, great climb! to the 4th pin involves lots of fun moves on tiny holds and sweet movements. After that, the climbing eases to 5.8+/5.9-.
Also, don't let the comments about the pins scare you off. On a scale of 1-10 for looking safe, I would rate the average garden pin a 3.5. These were at least 6. And the rock is not as soft as the typical red stuff everywhere else. It looks harder from the ground than it really is, don't worry!
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