BETA PHOTO: The best route for a decent from the summit of Kin...
Description
Betty Barnett, Lance Bischoff onsight. Main picture of "Kindergarten Rock" (Grey Rock/Cathedral) follow the topmost red (summit) line straight down the ridge to left of deep dark chimney. This is the route. Start at the large twin trees half way up and begin in the "waterfall" or find one of two crack systems up to next ledge system. Staying just right of the main descent (trough) puts you on a nicely exposed ridge route with 5.5-5.6 moves all the way to summit. Some sections go steep/vertical, and rope line is critical due to rough edges and narrow troughs. Great view, more interesting than standard ascent (5.0-5.4 at most)and offers lead placements on windy exposure. For warmup, there is also a 5.7-5.8 "Mini-Martian" wall left of the trees easily toproped and about 40 feet high.
Recommended! Fun! And a real lead as opposed to short rope cruise up the standard route. Small pro won't help much, you'll want stoppers, and generous use of runners to string the rope from the ridge (work either side for pro). Enjoy the view, you'll have lots of air around you!
Protection
Rack enhanced with numerous runners to flake rope line off ridge, horns, flakes and longer ones for anchoring will work fine. Some pockets, and numerous cracks for stoppers/cams.
This is an absolutely awesome climb!!! There is lots of handholds and foot placements. The exposed ridge is very vertical and the rock is right in your face. You can just feel the exposure and the exhileration while climbing. The views are breathtaking and there is plenty of opportunity along the climb to stop and take a moment to just soak in the views. Note: this climb is not for those who are pretty squirmish about heights, due to the air exposure in many places of the climb. This is a very fun climb and highly recommended.
I concur with Betty! We often climb this route at dawn, before we go to work. Has almost a backcountry, alpine feel to it. Often we'll start at the bottom of south end slabs, trad climb the far left crack and work our way to the base of Shangrila. Fun climb!
Kindergarten Rock
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