The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
Jon Cannon considers the crux of Tidrick's. Photo...
Description
This is one of the few moderate, multi-pitch routes at the Garden that about any intermediate leader should be able to do. It is a three pitch route that wanders up the Finger Face. PITCH 1: Climb the Tourist Gully to the FIRST large eyebolt. From here head out to the right past three pins and get an ascent of the Lower Finger Traverse (5.7). Anchor in at the chains in the alcove below the "finger". PITCH 2: From the anchors head up and left past two runout bolts. There are some natural pro possibilites, they may help more with your mental climbing than actually stopping a fall. Pull the cruxish move between the second and third bolts (5.8), scamper up to the third bolt, clip, catch your breath, and prepare for another fun traverse. You will want to head left across an apparently blank looking face to the visible anchors at the top of Son of Tidrick's. Plan your attack, trust your feet, get across the face, grab the jug, and do a slight downclimb to the anchors. Belay your partner across and watch them sketch through the traverse. PITCH 3: (5.7) Not many people do this pitch, but fun if you have the time. Head straight up from the anchors through three bolts. At the thrid bolt do yet another traverse right, to Place in the Sun's anchors which are not visible from the end of the second pitch. DESCENT: Two ropes (recommended) should at least get you to the initial eyebolt. One rope would get you to the second or third eyebolts.
Protection
Mostly bolted with chain anchors. A couple of places for small cams and stoppers (not needed, probably wouldn't stop a fall, but there are a few good places to practice placing)
A word on the crux: it seems awfully sandy and frictiony until you move your left foot over (WAY over) into a nice seam. From there, you can simply reach up to a nice jug and haul past.
there is a very real danger of getting pumped too early on this. coming out and accross on the first three bolts of the second pitch are an exercise in precision foot placement. stopping for too long is a sure way to drain and fail. be safe!
By Erik Tullberg From: Colorado Springs Jun 22, 2008 rating: 5.9 R
We did this route as the second pitch of Finger Ramp. What a nice ending to that climb (though it is run-out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts - then it's good again).
North Gateway Rock
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